Day Five - Xi'an to Chongqing - Friday - 14 March 2014

We are up at 5:30 am -- packed with bags outside the door and finished breakfast by 7:30 am.  Since we are not leaving for the flight to Chongqing until 9:45 am. -- we take a walk and experience crossing the street in a Chinese big city -- just follow the locals.

Our 12:10 pm flight on Xiaman Air is delayed so by the time we get in the air it is well after 1:00 pm.  The flight is short and uneventful.  Even on these short intra-China flights a hot meal is served.  However Jimmie has already given us a box lunch prepared by the Tang Dynasty restaurant -- it is 

deliicious.

Chongqing is the port on the Yangtze where we board the Viking Emerald -- a riverboat with five levels and about 140 cabins.  With just under 200 passengers, the boat is not at capacity.

We land in Chongqing without incident -- Jimmie handles the luggage transfer -- we board the bus to the city zoo for a look at the Giant Pandas.   What a treat!   The zoo is delightful -- the flowers are in bloom -- there are topiaries in animal form and bronze street art of elephants, kangaroos and other inhabitants.   Between the warm weather and the tulips -- it is evident that we have left the north.  The Yangtze River is the dividing line between North and South China.

The Giant Pandas are out and active -- which is not always the case.  They are eating and wandering around their habitat.  We visit with the three females but the male is inside --- apparently breeding these animals is a challenge.  I won't go into the particulars -- if interested you can google it.

Chongqing is a huge city with 33 million people in the city and suburbs.  It has grown considerably since becoming a municipality in 1997.  On our way to the Viking Emerald, our local guide, Fiana, gives us a lesson in Chinese real estate.  All the apartments are the same price no matter what floor.  The most desirable floor is the top since you also get the roof and can plant gardens and trees.   The first step is to puchase the apartment with 30% down and a 30 year mortgage.   The next step is to fit the place out since all new apartments are shellls.  There is no electricity or plumbing.  It can take 12 to 18 months before move-in.  These apartments are all still owned by the Chinese government -- so inidividuals are just leasing them for 70 years.

In Chongqing there are few bicycles and motor scooters due to a hilly terrain, a good subway system and three monorail systems.  There are more half-finished high rise buildings here than I can count -- the city has recently put in a height restriction of 33 stories. 

When we arrive at the Emerald we notice that it is docked in the middle of the river where the water is deeper.  Getting to the boat is a process -- 1) walk down a very steep stone staircase, 2) traverse several floating docks, 3)  walk across another boat, 4) board the Viking Emerald.   

It is good to settle in for ten days -- our rooms are very nice including a small balcony with two chairs.  After touring the boat -- we have our first dinner on board -- food is great.  After dinner I'm back in the cabin to unpack as we begin our cruise along the Yangtze River.  Who knows what await us!

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Four -- Xi'an -- Thursday - 13 March 2014

Slept till 5 am -- breakfast at 6:30 am -- another amazing display of food -- not just breakfast -- dim sum, roasted vegetables, homemade yogurt, eggs, ham, all kinds of breads and pastries.  

By 8:30 we are off to the see the Terra Cotta soldiers with Jing, our local guide assisting Jimmie.   Mr. Yang who is now 77 years old is the farmer who was digging a well when he discovered the shards of terra cotta -- alerted the authorities and the rest is history.  This was in 1974 -- Mr. Yang signs books at the site and now works in an ambassadorial capacity -- although we are told he can be grouchy when his picture is taken.

Pit #1 is holds 6,000 terra cotta soldiers -- housed in a building which is very much like an airplane hanger.  One can view the soldiers which have been uncovered, mended and put back into the original formation as they were buried.  In another section, there are soldiers in various stages of being mended -- and then there is a section where archaeologists are working to unearth additional soldiers.   

Pit #2 was discovered a couple of years later.  It is smaller and we can see what condition the soldiers are in before excavation, mending and put into formation.   The task to put these warriors and horses back together is daunting.   The tops of the warriers are hollow and the bottoms of the warriors are solid.  All the warriors are different -- their faces, their dress, everything.  The thinking is that maybe they were modeled after people living in the area 2200 years ago.  

Pit #3 also discovered around 1976  is the smallest but thought to be the military headquarters of this army of 8,000 warriors.

Pit #4 is empty so perhaps it was in the process of being completed when there was turmoil which brought about the end of the Qin Dynasty. 

Next we visit the museum where on display are two bronze chariots and horses uncovered with the warriors.  Most chariots were made from wood so they have decayed over the years.   Interestingly enough -- the terra cotta warriors are all much taller than people at that time.  Warriors range from 5'11"to 6" tall.  The two bronze chariots are about 1/3 the size of a normal chariot at that time.  Just before leaving the museum we catch a glimpse of Mr. Yang signing books.   He looks more perplexed than grouchy.  He's probably still trying to figure out how all this happened when all he wanted was to dig a well.

The three hours spent here fly by -- it's off to lunch at a local restaurant for traditional Chinese food -- back to hotel by 2:30 pm.

After an afternoon rest -- we are back on the bus at 7 pm to go to the Tang Dynasty Theatre for dinner and a show.   The Tang Dynasty ruled China from about 600 AD to 900 AD during a period of wealth and prosperity.   

This show was incredible -- the costumes,  the dancing, the music.  Phil and I both loved it as did everyone in attendance.  This production is what the Tang royalty would have been enjoying during their time.   

A Long wonderful day -- back to the hotel by 10:00 pm.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Three -- Beijing to Xi'an - Wednesday - 12 March 2014

Up at 4:00 am so the time difference is beginning to even out.  Luggage outside the door by 6:00 am -- breakfast at 6:30 am and on the bus by 8:00 am.   Jimmie is in fine form this morning teaching Chinese greetings and other pleasantries -- continuing with more on the history of China from 1949 forward.   Remember when your parents told you to eat your vegetables because of the starving children in China?  Well it turns out they were really starving over here in the late 1950's and early 1960's.   More people died during that time than died during World War II -- the Chinese government has never been willing to release the detailed information.

We spend the morning in old Beijing -- the oldest section of town with small one story cement buildings at least 150 years old.  At one time single homes with very large court yards existed here.   Taken away from the owners under Chairman Mao -- then returned in smaller pieces to some of the original families after Mao died.     This centrally located neighborhood is very desirable  -- evidence of this is seen by all the homes being renovated.   In one case a brand new two car garage has been added to a newly renovated house.  What makes this area so unique is that none of these homes have private bathrooms.   There are public bathrooms strategically placed to be no more than a three minute walk from each residence -- these public facilities are maintained by government employees and are spotless. The homes have electricity and running water but there is no sewer system here to accommodate human waste.  While we are on the subject -- bathrooms have two categories in China -- Chinese (a porcelain hole in the ground which flushes) and Western (what we are used to).   

Affter a ten minute walk through the streets we all board bicycle-powered rickshaws and are driven around the area to Madame Wong's house for tea and to have a look at the wares her niece makes -- reverse painting inside snuff bottles of various sizes.   Madame Wong lives with her daughter in about 500 square feet.  --  a portion of the original property which has been in her family for 500 years.  She is retired from a government job and now opens her home three time a week to tourists.  She said it also gives her niece exposure for what she calls "the family business".   I purchased a small snuff bottle with a painting of pandas on it -- the artist painted my name on it from the inside.  Cost:  $22.

Back on the rickshaws to the Bell Tower Tea House -- where Jimmie explains the history of this place.

In ancient times the bell would be rung in the morning to wake the village and let them know the gates were open.  In the evening a drum would sound to announce the closing of the gates.

On the plaza outside the bell tower -- two men play with a shuttle cock -- throwing it up in the air and catching it with the side of their foot.   We are each given one and encouraged to join in.   Of course -- it is more difficult than it looks.

Once inside the Tea Room -- we have a demonstration of how to brew Chinese Tea and a tasting of four teas:  Oolong, Jasmine, Purer and Rose/Lichee -- all mild and very pleasant to drink.   The teas are expensive -- about $100 for an 8"high tin filled with tea.   I buy a porcelain tea strainer for $20.

We have a wonderful morning -- but now it is off to the airport.  Our 1hour/45minute flight on Eastern China Airlines is uneventful.   Jimmie introduces us to Jing, our local guide, who will take us to see the terra-cotta soldiers in the morning.   We check into the Crowne Plaza (a 51 story round building) -- fabulous room -- huge -- all the amenities.

After settling in -- we meet at 6:00 pm for a Dumpling Banquet at a local restaurant.  It was okay -- but I am up to date on Chinese dumplings -- don't need to have any more while I'm here.  We sit with Al & Deb from Texas and Dave & Tracey from Stratford On Avon in England -- a good table.  Phil and I walk back to the hotel with Jimmie leading a small group who want exercise.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Two - Beijing - Tuesday - 11 March 2014

We awake at 3 am -- so get up -- hopefully this getting up in the middle of the night will settle down soon.  Today we tour Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City.   The square is a very large plaza surrounded by government buildings and Mao's Tomb -- the largest tomb in the world.  Jimmie is a wonderful guide particularly adept at explaining the complicated Chinese history -- and making it interesting for us foreigners.

The Forbidden City is where all the emperors of China lived with their wives, children, concubines and servants (who were all eunuchs).   For 500 years nobody but the several hundred who lived in this vast complex were allowed entry into the Forbidden City -- which was surrounded by a moat and well protected.   Most of the buildings are empty now -- the treasures live in Malaysia.   In the residential buildings furnishings are still in place as if it were 150 years ago -- visitors are invited to peek in the windows to look at these rooms of original furniture in very sorry repair. 

After a busy morning with a lot of walking -- we have a Chinese lunch in one of the hotels.  Our lunch involves a large glass lazy susan in the middle of a round table that usually seats eight.  Platters of food keep coming until they need to be stacked to stay on the lazy susan.   We are told the Chinese are fast eaters with no chit-chat during their meal -- they eat and then they relax with tea and conversation.

We are back at the hotel by 2:45 pm -- then meet at 6:00 pm for a Peking Dinner.  This dinner was just okay -- even by Phil's standards and he likes duck.  We are in our room by 9:00 pm and in bed by 9:05 pm -- exhausted.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

P.S.  If you want to see the photos be sure to access the blog at:   
                                 www.journeytochinawithpatandphil.blogspot.com

Day One - Beijing - Monday - 10 March 2014

Phil and I are both wide awake before 3:00 am -- so we get up.  I write the blog but am having trouble posting it.  It appears that accessing Google and Blogger is a challenge in mainland China.
Then we happen to discover that Centro, the bar in the lobby, is open 24/7 and serves coffee so here we are at 5:00 am.

Breakfast at 6 am in Kerry's Kitchen -- the breakfast buffet is the most comprehensive I have ever seen.  I try several Chinese selections -- just experimenting -- some good and some not so much.

At 7:15 am we meet our group in the lobby for the hour-long drive to the Great Wall with Jimmie -- our Tour Escort.  Jimmie will take care of  32 of us all the way to Hong Kong.  Jimmie's assistant is Ray and our driver is John.  Most Chinese guides take American names because it is easier for us to remember.   During the trip Jimmie gives us some facts about China -- don't drink tap water -- currency -- safety -- the loo -- etc.  He also gives us a history lesson of how the Great Wall came to be and the various dynasties that ruled China over the past 2,000+ years. 

Arriving at the North Entrance to the Great Wall -- we walk through an area with shops and restaurants arriving at the Friendship Shop which Jimmie recommnends because it is large, run by the government and the bathrooms have "western-style" toilets.    It is very cold here -- so Phil needs to buy a fleece jacket since he is ill-prepared for this weather.    

The Great Wall is one of those things that you must see if you are in China -- but it is definitely a tourist trap.  It is awe-inspiring to see the wall wind its way across the mountains -- and think of the people who built this wall over 2,000 years ago.  This area is very cold in winter and very hot in summer -- there are no records of how many workers died but I imagine the number would be staggering.

We lasted on the wall for about thirty minutes -- between Phil's fear of heights and the cold -- we had enough.  Back at the Friendship Store we had coffee and a look around at the merchandise and antiquities -- the place is enormous.    On the way I purchased a pair of coral-colored ear muffs from one of the vendors -- for about $7.

We had a traditional Chinese lunch today at a restaurant adjacent to the Dragon Land Superior Jade Factory where we could watch the grinders at work through a glass panel --- the work is tedious requiring precision.   The retail section was quite large with lots of merchandise which they would have liked for us to purchase but we did not.

After lunch we have a nice walk through the  Sacred Way near the Ming Dynasty Tomb -- this is a large path lined with 500 year old huge marble statues of soldiers of varying ranks and animals who protect the gravesites of the Ming Emperors and their entourages.  

On the way to the hotel we pass the 2008 Olympic Park -- the Chinese are quite proud of the "birds nest" and other buildings -- the park surrounding the "birds nest" looks quite crowded as we pass by.

For the evening, we meet at 6:15 in the lobby to go to the Peking Opera.   This is a part of Chinese culture that has been around for over 200 years.   We were given the abbreviated version lasting one hour ---- just enough.   The story lines are all fables from Chinese history -- most of the story is told through dance and gymnastics - very little dialogue.  However -- there is a screen which translates into English what words are being spoken.   

As the hotel the dining room is still open when we get back from the opera we have a bite to eat -- and off to bed.

A good and busy first day in Beijing.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Getting To Beijing -- Saturday - 08 March 2014

As I write this blog post it is Saturday - 08 March 2014 -- we are on United Flight 821 from Boston to San Francisco.  Now you might ask why aren't they in Beijing?  Weren't they supposed to leave on Friday?  Yes we were -- but we didn't.  Let me go back to Friday morning.

Phil and I were to be on a 6:40 am flight to Newark and then a noon flight to Beijing.  I was awakened Friday morning by light coming through the window -- immediately I knew we had overslept -- it was 6:30 am.

I jumped out of bed like a crazy woman calling Phil's name to wake him up -- and to announce the dismal news.  Never have we ever overslept when we travel -- we're early to every flight and get up in the middle of the night with no problem. M The reason we overslept I discovered was that I had set the alarm on my phone for 3:45 pm instead of am.

So --- I immediately called United and miraculously got through to a good agent without too much trouble.   She said all the flights to Newark were booked so she couldn't get us to the noon Beijing flight on Friday but she could rebook us -- at no charge -- on the same route for Saturday.   The only change was we would leave Boston at 8:30 am.  I took it and started counting my blessings -- and told Phil he could stop checking train schedules to Newark as he had been frantically doing since he heard the news.  Once that was settled we started to calm down and realize that this was not the end of the world.  Since we originally were going a day early --we would not miss any of the tours in Beijing.

So what to do with a free day --  I started working on our taxes --- Phil took a walk -- we both napped ---we had a nice dinner in the city and went to bed early.  We set two alarms.

Fast forward to Saturday morning -- we're up, dressed and ready to go out the door when Phil had a few minutes to check his e-mail while waiting for me.  All of a sudden I hear,  "You better take a look at this e-mail from United."  I couldn't believe my eyes.  United had at 2:00 am changed our route to Beijing because they cancelled the 8:30 am flight to Newark.  The new route:   Satuday evening flight to Dulles in Washington, DC then on to Chicago where apparently we were expected sleep overnight at the airport --- then a Monday morning flight to Beijing.   Panic set in again -- after a conversation with our travel agent's emergency people -- we decided to go to the airport to discuss this with a real person.  

It turned out to be a good decision since we were able to get on a 7:30 am flight to San Francisco and a noon flight to Beijing -- arriving within an hour or so of our "second" original time.  Apparently -- it was easier for United to get us from Boston to San Francisco than from Boston to Newark for a noon flight to Beijing.

I can now report that both flights were long but uneventful -- our ride from the airport was long -- one hour -- since it was rush hour (yes they have rush hour on Sunday) and the Kerry Hotel in Beijing is fabulous.  

GRAY is the one word that I would use to describe Beijing -- judging from our ride into the city.  The pollution was not awful but it provides a dull backdrop to the city.  The people are wonderful and not gray in the least -- but friendly and smiling. 

Tomorrow we visit the Great Wall --- we are so glad to finally be here!

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

The Day Before

Phil and I leave for China tomorrow morning at the crack of dawn: Boston to Newark -- then at Noon Newark to Beijing -- where 14 hours later we and hopefully our luggage will arrive in good order.

Our tour consists of:  four days in Beijing -- two days in Xian -- ten days on the Yangtze from Chongqing to Shanghai -- one day in Guilin -- three days in Hong Kong.

Posting the blog daily might be a challenge since we may not have wifi on the river cruise portion of the trip.

So I suggest that you sign-up over to the right to be notified when a blog post is available.

As always -- thanks for reading -- we love having you all come along on our journey.

Pat