Getting Home - Hong Kong to Boston - Sunday - 30 March 2014

Up early for luggage pick-up and our last breakfast with such an array of choices.   Our flight is United - non-stop - Hong Kong to Newark at 10:25 am -- 15 hours in the air.

Meeting in the lobby with Sherry and Frank (also on our flight) we get in a cab with Alex, our local guide.  Arrive at the airport with plenty of time to spare -- check luggage --- through security --- pick up incidentals for the plane ride ---  board well ahead of time ---- move away from the jetway --- we're on our way.  Shouldn't we have taken off by now?  

The pilot makes the dreaded announcement that we need to go back to the gate because something is wrong with our water system.  We get that sinking feeling --  but the issue is resolved within an hour or so --- off we go.  It just means that we are on this plane for 16 not 15 hours.   

It is a Boeing 777 so each seat has its own screen with many choices of movies, tv series, games, documentaries, etc.   I watch "Philomena" again --love that movie.  I finally get to see "Gravity" and am glad I didn't pay to see it -- no plot.   I discover "Ray Donovan", a series on Showtime which I don't subscribe to at home -- watch five episodes.    I read "Emperor of All Maladies" (a very long book I've been reading off and on for several months).   We eat a couple of meals.  And --- amazingly enough touch down in Newark, N.J.  a little early.   

Breeze through Immigration and Customs --  recheck our bags and after a wait at the gate we're off to Boston.  

We usually take the subway home but treated ourselves to a cab --- arriving home about 7:30 pm Sunday 30 March 2014. 

We feel great -- perfect timing -- unpack have a bite to eat and we're back on EST time.

Not so fast -- we both suffered from jet lag like never before.  Of course the waking up several times during the night is expected but after ten days I wondered if I'd ever sleep through the night again.  We both had colds -- Laryngitis knocked me out for three days at the end of the first week -- I couldn't speak a word.  Phil's cold started getting better then he had a relapse.  But that is all behind us now.

We are home just over three weeks --- feel good and so pleased that we took this trip to China.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Twenty - Hong Kong - Macau - Saturday - 29 March 2014

Phil, Al and I are going to Macau today on the 8:00 am ferry -- Deb has laryngitis.

Breakfast at 6:30 am then out the door to walk to the ferry.  On arrival at the ferry terminal we discover super class is all that is available -- so be it -- it's about $80 round trip.  

Passports are required to get into Macau as it is a Special Administrative Region (SAR) -- similar to Hong Kong -- until 2049.  Macau was under Portuguese control from the mid 16th century until 1999. This is the only place gambling is legal in China and the Chinese love to gamble.  When Phil and I were here eight years ago -- Harrah's was the only casino -- now there are thirty-three casinos.

The woman at the Information desk suggests Bus No. 3 to get to the Portuguese section --- which is where we want to go.   We get off the bus and walk around --- passing lots of storefronts that are fun to peer into -- I am a real voyeur.  There might be a mechanic next to a hair salon next to a plumbing supply store next to a restaurant.  These people are all entrepreneurs.

After about an hour -- it starts raining --- a deluge that will not let up.  I have on my hooded raincoat -- but the boys are in shorts and shirts.  We spend about 45 minutes going from awning to awning to finally get to see the ruins of St. Paul's.   After lots of dodging to and fro -- we make it to a casino hoping to get their shuttle to the ferry terminal.  Alas -- they won't let us on the shuttle without proof that we have gambled in their casino.

We take a cab to the ferry terminal --- get on the 12:30 Ferry -- arriving in Kowloon about 2:00 pm just as the rain subsides.  Oh well--- we've had a little adventure.

I leave Phil and Al to their own devices -- and stroll the streets of Kowloon. I pop in and out of stores  -- nothing appeals.   I wander --  watching the goings-on -- noticing the variety of people rushing here and there.  I love this city as much for its variety of people as anything else.    I arrive at the hotel about 5:00 pm.

We (Phil, Al and I) are scheduled to meet Jimmy at 6:00 pm --- we have invited him to dinner at a restaurant of his choosing.   He picks a restaurant close to the hotel which does not cater to tourists.

We have a lovely meal with Jimmy.  It is nice to enjoy his company without his official "Viking Hat" on.   Jimmy orders for all of us and  Al brings "home" some leftovers for Deb.

This is a fitting end to a wonderful trip -- one of our best.  Viking did a great job -- everything went off without a hitch.  The hotels were all five star -- the meals were all very good.  Each day we learned something new and interesting.  

I cannot believe how ignorant I was about China --- its history and its people.  I will pay more attention now when I hear about what is going on in China.

I'm so glad that you were able to come along on this trip with us.  Even though it was touch and go at the very beginning -- we made it.  Now we just have to make it home tomorrow.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Nineteen - Hong Kong - Friday - 28 March 2014

I absolutely love the view from our room -- couldn't be any better.  Looking over Victoria Harbor from the Kowloon Peninsula to Hong Kong Island is -- well there are no words. Phil and I have breakfast at 6:30 am --- we start to tone it down -- I have toast and an orange.

We meet our group at 9:00 am -- for a tour of the area.  It is very foggy today so Victoria Peak is last  --- let's hope the fog burns off.

Our first stop is Aberdeen, a fishing village,  for a ride on a Sampan -- a small flat-bottomed wooden boat popular in South China -- some people live on Sampans forming villages on the water.   Phil and I visited this area eight years ago -- the difference is stunning.  Aberdeen is no longer a sleepy fishing village -- high rises and a large marina with several yachts is now the order of the day.  It is a fun ride around the marina -- seeing the sights from the water always gives a unique perspective.  JUMBO'S -- a very large floating seafood restaurant is still there but eight years ago it stood out as the largest building --- now it is dwarfed by all the tall condo buildings behind it.

Our next stop is a large jewelry store accessed through a back door --- the bus parks in an alley-way.   The proprietors hope we might find a bauble or two --- we do not.

Stanley Market -- on the way to Victoria Peak -- is a large flea market known for having overruns and seconds.  It is a bit overwhelming but I rise to the occasion and pay $13 for three colorful cotton scarves.  Fog or not we must go to Victoria Peak -- there is no view -- the fog has settled in but it's fun to walk around.

Phil and I opt to take the Tram back to sea level -- walk to the Apple Store -- then take the ferry back to Kowloon.  The Tram is fun -- the view improves as we slide down the mountain.

The Apple Store in Hong Kong could be anywhere --- the first employee I encounter is from Canada.  I tell him that I think my battery is dying since it does not hold a charge as long as usual.   He brings me upstairs and sets me up at the genius bar -- even though I don't have an appointment.   There is really nothing they can do except charge it for me -- since the components are different then in the U.S.   

So -- with about a 20% charge on my phone -- off we go to get the ferry ----  a great ride across Victoria Harbor.

Every night during the week -- there is a light show on Victoria Harbor at 8:00 pm.  Jimmy takes whoever is interested for a walk along the harbor to an area where we might see something.   However --- the fog has still not lifted but we see a little something in the hazy twilight.

Phil has been taking a nap -- so when I return we go to Spasso -- an Italien restaurant nearby which is lively with a great view.  We just have pizza but it is quite good.  I think our bodies know that the feeding frenzy is almost over -- time to adjust.

A great day in Hong Kong.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Eighteen - Guilin -- Hong Kong - Thursday - 27 March 2014

Up about 5:00 am -- breakfast is what we've become accustomed to -- I'm eating way too much -- my digestive system will feel deprived once I get home.  The plan for today is a cruise on the Li River to see, up close, the Guilin Mountains -- and a stop in a village to see a bit of rural life in China.  We have a 4:15 flight to Hong Kong on Dragon Air -- flight time is just over an hour.

On the bus by 8:05 am --  Guilin is a resort area for the wealthy Chinese --- a round of  golf is $250 -- homes are mansion-like and completely finished.   Chen explains that the Guilin Mountains are actually limestone and their beauty is in their unusual formations.  However -- high rises are being built impairing the view -- what are they thinking?

Our one hour+ cruise on the Li River (ZhuJiang Wharf to YangDi)  is very nice -- our group has the entire top floor.   Tea is served -- and available for purchase is snake wine -- one of the men in our group takes a shot --- he appears to survive.   The river is busy -- lots of small boats made from several lengths of PVC pipe tied together with small motors on the back.   One bold vendor attaches his PVC vehicle to the side of our boat and proceeds to offer his wares to passengers on the first floor.

On our way to lunch -- we stop in a very primitive village with chickens walking around.   It is eye-opening.   Seeing this village gives me pause to wonder how the older Chinese generation is coping when uprooted from this simple lifestyle and moved to a high rise building in the middle of a brand new city.

Lunch is served in a downtown Guilin hotel -- no western bathrooms -- but I had to use what was available -- no choice.  I'll be glad to get to Hong Kong where this is not an issue.  

At the airport by 2:00 pm -- short flight --- long bus ride from airport to city.  Traffic is the worst we've seen.  Alex, our local guide, takes this opportunity tell us about his beloved city.  Alex was born and brought up in Hong Kong -- he has never been to mainland China.

The British ruled Hong Kong from circa 1843 until 1997 as part of the treaty ending the first Opium War.  Passports are required to enter Hong Kong from mainland China.  The currency is the Hong Kong dollar -- everything is in Chinese and English --- and all the bathrooms are western.   Chinese residents here speak Cantonese as opposed to Mandarin on the mainland.  Apparently it is a very different dialect -- of course it all sounds the same to us.

In 1997 China deemed Hong Kong a Special Administrative Region (SAR) until 2046.  There are three major districts:  Hong Kong Island --- Kowloon Peninsula (where we stay) -- New Territories --- all totaling 426 square miles.  Population is more than 7 million people -- 6.9% have cars.  So -- where is all this traffic coming from?
 
By 7:45 pm we have checked in to the Shangri-la --- all of us have been upgraded to harbor front rooms.  Words cannot describe the view of Victoria Harbor -- I could sit in front of the window for the next two days and be happy.

Phil and I have dinner in the hotel --- okay but very expensive.  We are now on our own for meals -- except breakfast which is included.

In bed by 10:00 pm  --- glad to be in this city that does not disappoint.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Seventeen - Shanghai - Guillin - Wednesday - 26 March 2014

Up at 6:00 am -- luggage out the door -- finished breakfast by 7:30 am -- I ate too much.

We are off to the airport by 9:05 am for a 2-1/2 hour Noon flight to Guilin -- a town with a population of  720,000 -- main industry is tourism.

As we drive to our hotel in Guilin about 3:00 pm -- we notice the beautiful mountains -- very distinct shapes -- this is yet another terrain in China that is new to us.  People like to come here because the air is very clear since there is no industry.  Guilin is an ancient city dating back to the first emperor around 221 B.C -- he's the guy with the terra cotta soldiers in Xian.  However -- tourism really got going here in the mid 1970's after Mao died.

On the ride to our hotel -- The Shangri-la -- Jimmy and our local guide, Chen, offer to take anyone interested to a place where we can have a reflexology massage for $20 plus a small tip.   Several of us are definitely in -- off we go -- we don't even wait for our luggage.

About twenty of us arrive at Guilin Health and are ushered into rooms with large chairs --
our room has about eight.  Then the masseuses come in -- they are all very young but tell us their training is two years.   My guy is "Tom" --  he speaks a little English -- more than I speak Chinese.   The massage is wonderful - for about 30 minutes we have reflexology and foot massage --- then a leg massage and then we turn around and have a back and neck massage to round out the hour.    All Tom can talk about is Hollywood --- he knows all the action film stars.   He's nice kid and a wonderful masseuse.

We next take a short walk to a lakeside area which is a favorite with photographers -- especially the Pagodas across the lake at sunset which is coming up.   Apparently, Chen tells us, photos from this spot are favorites in print advertising.

Tonight we have dinner at the hotel -- a very large buffet with a glass of wine or soft drink included or beer (which is bottomless). 

We are in bed by 9:00 pm

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Sixteen - Shanghai - Tuesday 25 March 2014

Up and having breakfast by 6:30 am -- anything one could want for breakfast is in this dining room.

At 8:00 am Jimmy leads a short walking tour of The Bund -- explaining the history of the area and the European versus the Contemporary architectures.  There is a light misty rain while we walk but it is warm.

Our next stop is Old Shanghai with a visit to the Yuyuan Garden -- completed in 1559.  The Garden is a maize of pathways over various bodies of water to several very different  and beautiful structures.   This entire one acre arrangement was originally a private residence -- taken over by the Chinese Government in 1949.

Leaving the garden -- we are let loose in Old Shanghai for 30 minutes.  Here we find many small streets, a plaza and a lagoon of sorts with a zig-zag bridge to keep the spirits away (since spirits only travel in straight lines).   Shops, department stores and cafes abound.  I purchase a sweater for 60 RMB ($10).   Our meeting place in Old Shanghai is Starbucks.

Our next stop is a Silk Factory which makes rugs and embroidered wall hangings ---it is where we will lunch at their Mongolian Barbecue.  After a brief demonstration of the weaving process -- it is clear that we have been brought here to buy.  The rugs are lovely  but expensive.  We are told that a particular 4' x 6' rug normally sells for $30,000 but with our discount today it would be $9,000. -- Phil and I decide we do not need a new rug. 

The Mongolian Barbecue is a different type of lunch.   You take a bowl -- fill it with raw meat and vegetables --- get in line at the barbecue -- hand over your bowl --- get in another line to collect your bowl of stuff all cooked.  The key is to keep your eye on the grill to track your food -- so you get the right bowl back.  I enjoyed my collection of vegetables -- it was quite flavorful.   A buffet with cooked fare as well as fresh fruit is available for those less adventurous.

After lunch we spend about ninety minutes at the Shanghai Museum -- a stunning building constructed on a site which used to be a horse racing track.   This visit was much better than either Phil or I expected.   There are 4 floors of artifacts categorized by item instead of period or region.  Rooms include:  Jade -- Bronze -- Ceramics,  Costume, etc.  We run around furiously trying to see everything before it is time to go.

Back at the hotel for a two hour rest before we depart for dinner at "Shanghai Uncle" just out the back door of the Westin --  and on to an Acrobat Show at the Shanghai Centre Theatre.

The Shanghai Center is in a different part of town -- very upscale -- we pass several  designer store fronts as well as high end hotels and restaurants.   The Acrobat Show is amazing -- the very young male and female performers entertain us with stunts that are flawless.  Everyone has such a good time for the entire one and half hours.  

This is the end of the tour for most people.  Thirty-eight of us are going on to Guillin and Hong Kong tomorrow -- with Jimmy as our guide.

Back at the hotel -- Phil and Al decide to walk to The Bund.  What do you know -- they find the Long Bar at the Waldorf Astoria.

We've had a very long day and enjoyed every minute.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Fifteen - Nanjing - Suzhou - Shanghai - Monday 24 March 2014

Up at 5:00 am -- luggage out by 6:00 am then to breakfast -- no internet service at all on the boat.  Cloudy today as the boat pulls up to the dock in Nanjing at 6:40 am.  By 7:55 am we are on the bus moving towards Shanghai --  it is raining.

Our history lesson today:  Nanjing means South Capital and Beijing means North Capital.  About 600 years ago the third Ming Dynasty Emporer moved the capital from Nanjing to Beijing.

After the founding of the Republic of China in 1912,  Nanjing again became the capital until 1949 -- except during World War II when Chang Kai Shek moved the capital to Chongqing (where we boarded the Emerald way back on March 14th).   During WWII  the Japanese took over Nanjing killing approximately 300,000 people -- it is known as the Nanjing Massacre.  The China is still very bitter toward Japan over this incident.

Today Nanjing is the Capital of the Province of Jiangsu -- and has a population of about 8 million people.  We experience a real rush hour debacle on the roads -- it's Monday morning -- its raining and nobody here has any courtesy when driving -- every vehicle for itself.   We finally get on the highway by 8:30 am.

At 11:15 am we arrive in Suzhou,  a municipality with 6 urban districts and a population of 6 million people.  Suzhou is known for gardens, canals and silk.

The local people are very health conscious -- they drink warm water before each meal to ward off rheumatoid arthritis -- they take a cat nap (15 minutes) after lunch -- everyone rides electric bikes or regular bicycles.

We stop for lunch at the "Glamour Hotel" -- typical Chinese meal with the lazy susan full of platters of vegetables and meat -- watermelon for dessert.  However,  the highlight of the Glamour Hotel is their five star bathroom with all western toilets.

After lunch we stop at the "Suzhou No. 1 Silk Mill" --- producer of silk merchandise --- bedding --- tablecloths -- clothing -- scarves.  The company store is overwhelming -- even for me.  I buy nothing.

Next is a stop at the Fisherman's Garden which is 800 years old.  A garden in China does not mean plants, flowers and trees only -- it consists of buildings and water and sculptures along with plantings.   This garden is one acre with several buildings -- a pond and a number of outdoor spaces which are very peaceful.   The property was left to the Chinese government by a wealthy individual -- maintenance is about one million RMB (more than $150,000) per year.

We are back on the the bus to Shanghai at 3:30 pm and arrive on the outskirts about 5:00 pm.  Shanghai is the largest city in China with a population of 23+ million and the world's busiest container port.  It is only about 700 years old (new by Chinese standards) and started as a fishing village.  This was an area to which emperors would exile citizens they did not like.

Shanghai grew in importance during the mid-19th Century not only because of its port location but because it was one of five cities opened to foreign trade in 1842 following Britain's victory over China in the first Opium War.  Many of the buildings along the western side of the Huangpu River were built at this time --- European influence is evident.  "The Bund" (as this section of Shanghai is known) has a riverwalk which is  popular with tourists and residents alike.

Across from The Bund is Pudong -- a Special Economic Zone set up by the Chinese Government in 1993.   The buildings within the Pudong are contemporary and spectacular.  Scheduled for completion this year is the Shanghai Tower which will be the second tallest building in the world -- the tallest is in Dubai.   The evening view from The Bund to Pudong is really something with all the building lights on in various forms.

Our hotel is the Westin Bund Center -- another five star hotel.  After dinner in the hotel restaurant, Phil and I walk to the The Bund.  It is a flawless night -- the activity level is energetic --  ships are moving down the river -- people are walking to and fro -- a general atmosphere of good feeling surrounds us.

We find the Waldorf Astoria and their "Long Bar" which was recommended by our friends, Jill and Tag.  We pop in but it is smokey beyond belief so we decide to come back tomorrow at an earlier time.

It has been a long,  satisfying day --- and there is more to come.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat
  
 

Day Fourteen - Mt. Jiu Hua -- Sunday - 23 March 2014

I was awakened about 3:45 am by the boat docking --- and never went back to sleep.   My routine continues -- treadmill -- Tai Chi (our last class) and breakfast.

Today the tour is in the afternoon for five hours -- a trip to Mt. Jiu Hua to see a sacred Buddhist mountain and the temples that have been built there.  It is a long trip -- the last twenty minutes are up a steep mountain path on the bus.    Phil and I -- and others decide to relax on the boat.    We are packing and getting ready for disembarkation tomorrow morning.  There will be a five hour bus trip to Shanghai -- broken up by a stops at a silk factory and lunch but a long day none the less.

It is a most enjoyable day including our final dinner on the Emerald.  Phil distributes tips to those who made our cruise a most enjoyable experience as we say goodbye to the crew members we've come to know.   We are ready for the next chapter on this wonderful tour of China.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat
 

Day Thirteen -- Jingdezhen - Porcelain Capital - Saturday - 22 March2014

We are docked in Jiujiang (population -- 700,000)  -- it means "nine rivers" and was established as a Chinese Administrative Unit in 221 BC.  Jiujiang is famous for three things:  The Yangtze River, Poyang Lake (largest in China) and Lu Mountain.   This is our local guide, Nancy's home town --- she is very proud.

During the two hour drive (each way) to Jingdezhen -- where procelain has been made in China for thousands of years -- Nancy tells us about this region.   Agricultural products include Rice (on wet land) and rape seed (used to make canola oil) and cotton on dry land in alternating seasons.  We pass a fresh water Pearl Farm and find out that each mussel can contain up to a dozen pearls.  Only the best are used for jewelry -- the rest are ground and used in cosmetics. As a comparison -- salt water pearls are one per mussel.

Farmers are in a state of flux here -- the agricultural tax they paid for over 2,000 years was cancelled and now the government pays them a subsidy.  Feeling financially flush many farmers are building houses -- usually three stories.  The process is to finish the first floor and move in.  The second and third floors are finished as needed or when they have the money which could be several years or not at all.  We pass neighborhoods filled with half-finished structures with families living on the first floor.

Also in the country -- are tombs for the dead -- usually built into a hillside for good feng shui.  There are no cemeteries that we have seen -- just individual tombs all over the fields and hills.

We know we have arrived in Jingdezhen, Porcelain Capital of China, when we see the street light poles made of blue and white porcelain.   Our first stop is a very thorough tour of the factory.  We visit the artisans in the step by step process of making a variety of  porcelain items-- small bowls to enormous planters.  Particularly interesting are the ovens which have been in existence for more than 700 years -- and for visitors a museum.

Lunch is in a local hotel -- a typical Chinese dislplay of platters on a large lazy susan in the middle of the table.  It is quite good --

Next is a stop at the wholesale market for porcelain -- 30 minutes here is plenty -- it is overwhelming -- street after street of shops selling all kinds of procelain items.  I did buy two cups with covers on them for 70 RMB or about $12.  I'll probably see them for less at Marshalls when I get home.

Back on the road for another two hour trip to the boat --- dinner at 6:30 and then a Cabaret Show with our crew as participants.  Amy and Frank -- two of our servers from the dining room are in the show - everyone is very talented.   It's a lot of fun to watch.

Getting close to the end of the cruise -- can't believe we've been on the boat for almost ten days.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Twelve -- Wuhan -- Friday - 21 March 2014

Up at 5:45 am -- treadmill -- Tai Chi and breakfast.   We are in Wuhan with a population of about 10 million --it is our Tour Escort, Jimmy's home town.  Crossing the Yangtze to Wuchang -- a city just 20 years old --  we visit the Huber Provincial Museum.  This museum is designed to protect, collect and display the cultural heritage of the Province of Hubei.

Our first stop is to look at a number of artifacts including lacquered items from the Qin and Han Dynasties (221 BC-220 AD) and porcelain items dating back to other ancient times. 

Next is a concert conducted by musicians in traditional Chinese costume -- their instruments were uncovered in the tomb of the Marquis Yi of Zeng -- a feudal king who lived 2400 years ago. Instruments include:    Bronze Bells -- Stone Chimes -- Drums -- Qin and Se (string instruments similar to a zither) -- Sheng (reed pipe wind instrument) -- Chi (bamboo flute) and Paixiao (panpipes).  The sounds are lovely  -- we listen to five arrangements using a variety of instrument combinations. 

Our last stop is to see some of the other 15,000 items unearthed in 1978 from the Marquis' tomb. Some artifacts have inscriptions which have been useful in determining the time period.   These items also provide a window into life during the Marquis' time -- circa 433 BC.  In addition to the coffin of the Marquis who was about 42 years old when he died -- there were coffins of young girls thought to be his concubines.   Their deaths were found to have been intentional presumably as sacrifices so they could join their master in the after life.

After spending the morning in the museum and lunch on board the Emerald  -- Jimmy leads a walking tour to the shopping area.  He takes us to a pedestrian street with lots of small shops and a Wal Mart -- which does not take foreign credit cards -- imagine that -- only in China!   The Wal Mart is very confusing --- on three floors -- and of course everything is in Chinese so we have no idea what we are looking at -- particularly in the grocery section.  Jimmy leaves us to wander around the area.

Phil and I don't spend much time here -- but stop into a pharmacy to pick up some incidentals using sign language -- at one point I feel like I'm playing charades.

Walking back to the boat presents us with interesting street scenes.  We are very much in "celebrity mode" in areas like this where  "westerners" are not a common sight.  People stare -- some giggle and those brave enough ask to take our picture.  We also notice several brides and groom out and about --- must be a good day to get married.  

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Eleven -- Donting Lake - Thursday - 20 March 2014

The closer we get to Shanghai -- the busier the traffic on the Yangtze -- all kinds of ships are going back and forth in somewhat of a chaotic nature although they are not bumping into each other so there must an order to the chaos.

At breakfast we notice this strange vessel passing by the window -- it looks like a haystack floating down the river -- there is more than one.  We are told it is "rees" -- a plant material taken from the banks of the Yangzte used to make paper.  The loads are so large that there must be a navigator on top of the pile of rees to communicate with the Captain or whomever is driving the boat.

We are in Yueyang -- population 1.2 million.  The city is at the south end of the Donting Lake which is the 2nd largest fresh water lake in China.   At 9 am we depart for a look at the Yueyang Tower -- a tribute to Fan Zhongyan -- a scholar from 1045 A.D.  He wrote a poem "On Yueyang Tower" which has been part of Chinese culture all these years.   The original poem is on the wall of the second floor of the tower.  This is more of a structure than a tower since it is only three stories high.

After a stroll down a pedestrian street with several shops we are back on the boat in time for lunch and an afternoon at leisure.

Did I mention how much rest we are getting on this part of the trip?   

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Ten -- Jingzhou - Viking School - Wednesday - 19 March 2014

We had quite the night on the Yangtze -- a disabled ship blocked a narrow channel so no other ships could pass -- then later on we hit a smaller boat or it hit us -- because of wind -- but all is well no damage was done.   All this while we were sleeping.
  
After my morning routine of:  treadmill -- Tai Chi -- breakfast -- we have extra time since we are behind schedule do the overnight activities.    So I observe the Yangtze River goings on.   The terrain on this section of the river is totally different -- barren and flat -- no mountains. It is also very busy -- so many vessels carrying coal, sand and other commodities.  We also just heard that the vessels do not have to pay to go through any of the locks -- it is all free.  This certainly encourages transportation on the river -- especially now that the larger freighters can go further into China.


Today we are visiting an elementary (6 to 12 year old students) -- one of three Chinese schools that Viking sponsors.  The school is located in Jingzhou a town with population of 700,000 -- it is considered a small city in China.   We first pass through some very poor areas with structures not much more than huts.  Once we get onto the Main Street of Jingzhou -- there are apartment buildings and shops -- one can see that it a vibrant place.  

There is a Normal School here which educates students to become teachers. Tuition is free in China for anyone studying a profession which is deemed necessary by the government:  teaching, mining, fishing, engineering and others. However if you want to study Liberal Arts -- you must pay tuition which is about $2,000 per year.

The children are so excited to see us -- they are lined up on each side of the pathway -- saying "hello" and wanting to shake our hands.  We are ushered to an outdoor stage where there is singing and dancing.  These kids are so adorable with energy and a liveliness that won't quit.   

After the show we split into groups to spend time in a classroom.  Our classroom has forty-six 8-year olds -- 28 boys and 18 girls.   One little girl takes my hand and brings me to her desk motioning for me to sit in her chair -- this happens to several passengers.   We sing a song for them --they sing a song for us -- we teach them to count to 10 in English -- everyone has a good time.

On the way back to the boat -- Jimmie gives us a good explanation of the complicated Chinese Family Planning System -- apparently the projection is that in 2033 Chinese population will reach its peak of 1.5 billion people -- after that it starts to go down.

Back on board -- an afternoon at leisure -- which means sleeping since the rocking of the boat is like a drug -- we are all so relaxed. Or -- maybe they're putting something in the food.

After dinner -- there is line dancing but more time is spent explaining it than doing it so get impatient and go to bed.

Thanks For Reading!

Pat

Day Nine - Three Gorges Dam - Tuesday - 18 March 2014

This morning we are back to our regular "Jimmie Folks" group for the Three Gorges Dam Tour.   

The Three Gorges Dam is the world's largest power station in terms of installed capacity --  it is expected to be completed by 2015 -- although it has been fully functional since July 2012.  The power generated by the 34 generators is equivalent to burning 25 million tons of crude oil or 50 million tons of coal.   This is believed to be the most expensive hydroelectric project in history costing about $28 billion.  Recovery of the full cost is expected to occur after ten years of full operation.

Before the dam was built flooding on the Yangtze was a normal occurence -- particularly memorable is the flood in 1931 which cost 145,000 lives.  By flooding cities, towns and villages along the Yangtze a reservoir has been created which measures 405 square miles.  Two major benefits are: the substantial reduction of flooding along the river and the depth and width to allow large ocean going freighters to move further into the mainland China.

This project has not been free of controversy -- particularly the relocation of 1.4 million people who lived in the cities, towns and villages now at the bottom of the expanded river as well as the destruction of architectural and archaeological sites.  Most of the relocated citizens were farmers who are now living in high rise apartments in newly developed cities.

Before entering the Three Gorges Dam area, our bus must stop at a checkpoint where we get off the bus, have our bags and our bodies checked, reboard the bus, and continue on our way.  There are a number of steep, fast-moving outdoor escalators bringing us up to higher and higher viewing areas for a vista of the entire Three Gorges Dam.   We get to see --- now from the outside --- the 5 level lock system we traveled through last night. There is also a boat elevator for smaller vessels which will be operational in November 2014.   In addition to providing power to China -- the government wants this to be a tourist attraction.  Just for visitors there are well landscaped and plentiful parks and viewing areas complete with a waterfall -- a photo booth -- and marketplaces. 

After our 3 hour tour we are back to the ship but not before walking through another market -- this time I succumb -- purchasing a scarf for 10 RMB --  less than $2.  

After lunch -- it is rest and relaxation as I get caught up on this blog anticipating that I will begin sending posts from Hong Kong.

Krishnna and I did have a tea tasting in one of the on-board shops -- just before dinner.   I might buy some buckwheat tea before this cruise is over.  It had a delicate nutty taste -- and is supposed to be good for digestion.

After dinner -- I read for a while -- but keep falling asleep -- we are getting plenty of rest on this cruise --- 

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Eight - Lesser Three Gorges - Monday - 17 March 2014

Happy St. Patrick's Day!   Starting the day with Tai Chi at 6:45 am is wonderful -- I am so glad this has been offered.  We have a pretty good size class this morning -- about 30 to 40 participants.

After breakfast -- we arrive at Qutang Gorge and transfer directly from the Viking Emerald to a  sightseeing vessel which takes us on a cruise down the Daning River into the Lessor Three Gorges.  A series of limestone ridges line the sides of this gorge  which provides us with spectacular scenery. 

Several villages dot the landscape as we cruise but the Rhesus monkeys which run wild along the ridges are a hightlight -- we see quite a few of them which our local guide tells us is unusual.  We are also able to see coffins on a ledge -- apparently not so long ago people lived in the caves that line these gorges and would bury their dead in the caves near to where they lived.

As we cruise our guide directs our attention to the highest point along the river where there is a village with a population of 200 farmers with an average age of 81 years.   Their longevity is attributed to:  1) the pure air at the top of the mountain  2) using natural fertilizers to grow their food   3) drinking a local tea which they grow in their chemical-free soil.  It is called Longevity Tea and is for sale on the boat -- no surprise here.  I decide to take my chances with Lipton.

We return to the Emerald in time for lunch and an afternoon cruising through the Wu (Witches) Gorge.  For four hours after dinner the Emerald navigates through the  5-stage lock system at the Three Gorges Dam.   We sit on Dave and Tracey's balcony at the front of the boat (they have a suite) for the first of the five locks.  But we're all tired and eventually decide we've seen enough. 

Today the weather was, again, warm and sunny which made for pleasant cruising through all the gorges and the locks.   

Another good day on the river!

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Seven - Fengdu to Shibaozhai -- Sunday - 16 March 2014

We spent the night in Fengdu -- slept great.  Up at 5:45 am -- 15 minutes on the treadmill -- Tai Chi at 7:00 am -- Breakfast at 7:30 am -- morning on board as we cruise the Yangtze.  I had a foot massage before lunch -- it was fabulous.

After lunch -- Jimmie takes us on a walking tour through another relocation town, Shibaozhai, to a 12 story Pagoda built into rock in 1572 -- it is the highest multi-storey ancient wooden structure in existence in China.  This structure is all that is left of the village that is now under water.    First we must cross a suspension bridge which is a little wobbly -- but apparently quite safe -- the bridge was built to give access to the Pagoda after the water covered the village.   Climbing the ladder-like stairs to the top of this pavilion is a challenge but with platforms strategically placed --  we all make it to enjoy the wonderful view of the river and the new town.   Several large and colorful Budha's live on the top floor -- and lo and behold there is a table with souvenirs.  These purveyors of everything the Chinese think we might want to take home are everywhere but I didn't expect to see a market on top of the Pagoda.

Going down is on stone steps -- much less steep than coming up.  Phil and I walk leisurely back to the ship through this town which is not as vibrant as Fengdu. However, we do enjoy the  sights along the Yangtze -- especially the women washing their clothes in the river. 

Tonight after dinner the staff stage a show of Chinese Costumes through the ages.   Amy -- one of our waitresses is in the show.  We wondered why she had so much eye make-up on at dinner -- she looks very regal in her period attire.   Frank -- our drink waiter is dressed as a Warrior -- he looks fearsome.

After the show -- it's off to bed.  What is it about being on a boat that makes me want to sleep.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Six - Chongqing to Fengdu - Saturday - 15 March 2014

First morning on the Emerald -- I went to the exercise room and used the treadmill for about 10 minutes and then to my first Tai Chi class.  Tom, our instructor,  is a Master in Tai Chi but speaks no  English, so Ben (an officer on board) translates.  The class is good -- more strenuous than it looks.

After breakfast there is a lecture on China focusing on the area we are cruising along the Yangzte where the Three Gorges Dam Project is located.  It is the largest hydro-electric power project in the world.  Approximately 1.4 million people were relocated from farms to high rise apartments in newly-built cities along the Yangtze. Construction started in 1994 -- completely functional in 2012 Started -- total completed expected in 2015. 

Today we visit Fengdu -- one of these newly-built cities.  The inhabitants have scheduled a music program with some of the children and others in an open area in the city.   It is a lot of fun -- the people seem so happy.  The young girls come up to us and ask if they can take our picture.  They do not see many Westerners in this part of China since Viking is the only riverboat that stops in Fengdu --  this is the first time this year.  All the children are well dressed -- the 10 to 14 year olds have cell phones and dress in the latest fashion. As we stroll through the shopping plaza across the street --- more people are looking at us, pointing and giggling.   We feel like celebrities as the teenagers ask us if they can have their picture taken with us --  mothers want to take pictures of us with their babies and young children.  Now I know how Julia Roberts feels!

Our next stop is the farmers'market --- small but full of fresh-looking vegetables and lots of dried spices and vegetables especially the hot chili peppers.  A parade goes down the street -- with three young ladies dressed in dresses made of artificial flowers -- followed by a marching band all dressed in red suits.   We soon find out that this is an advertisement for a new apartment building -- brochures are distributed complete with floor plans -- since the text is in Chinese we can't tell what the price is. 

Back on board the Emerald in time for the Welcome Cocktail Party at 6:30 pm.  We have settled on a table with the same four couples -- Al and Deb, Radhe and Krishnna, Dave and Tracey and Phil and me.  After dinner is Bingo -- Al wins a Chinese tea set -- which he gives to Sherri (another passenger)  -- who was hoping to win it.

Good Day on the River!

Thanks for Reading!

Pat